A few days ago, I headed to Cafe Frischhut for an experience that, according to a friend, no true Münchner should miss out on. Formerly known as Schmalznudel, the cafe at Viktualienmarkt was once famed for supplying hot, fresh Schmalznudeln (delicious, hot baked goods made from yeast) to weary partygoers in the early hours of the morning. The cafe’s since changed its name – and opening times, it now opens at 8am instead of 5am, but remains in the Frischhut family, and the Schmalznudeln are still excellent.
The cafe does sweet, filled donuts, its legendary Schmalznudeln, Rohrnudeln – I can particularly recommend them with a plum filling – and Auszogne. All cost just 2.30 € per serving, which I think is a rather fantastic deal, and a particularly good excuse to order more than one.
Tea and coffee is also reasonably priced – I had a wonderful chamomile tea from Eilles and service was friendly and efficient.
I’m pretty sure that the cafe has changed little since its opening in 1973 – everything’s very homely, tables and chairs are made from pine and the walls are covered in paintings from a member of the Frischhut family, Ursula Frischhut. The paintings change with the seasons – Frau Frischhut has been a prolific painter over the years, and when I visited, her winter/Christmassy paintings were on display.
Despite having no website, the cafe’s always bustling – longstanding customers mix with visitors from across the world, who have heard about the cafe via word-of-mouth. Cafe Frischhut’s a real gem in Munich – I can’t recommend it enough. If you’re after a short break from the hustle and bustle of the city centre, you’ll find it opposite the Schrannenhalle – Prälat-Zistl-Straße 8 is the address.