Munich is really rather lucky that chef Mun Kim chose to open a high-end fusion restaurant here. There’s nothing quite like it in the city, and it offers cuisine that surprises and inspires, in an elegant but relaxed cellar around the corner from the Gasteig, in Haidhausen.
Born in South Korea, Mun (pronounced Moon) emigated to Hawaii as a child. He went on to become an investment banker, working in Los Angeles and on Wall Street, until the financial crisis hit. He was laid off, and took the opportunity to train to become a chef – cooking was a passion of his, but something he’d only been able to practice in his spare time.
He moved to Los Angeles to train under acclaimed sushi chef Makoto Okuwa, and in 2010, Mun moved to Argentina. In Buenos Aires, Mun ran supper clubs – and the international press loved them. The New York Times described Mun’s dishes as unforgettable, and in Mendoza, a town famed for its wine industry, Mun @ Casarena opened its doors. It was there that Mun and his partner Cary met Eric Dolatre, the Munich-born founder of GMX.
Eric persuaded Mun and Cary to move to Munich, seeing a gap in the market. And MUN gives Munich a taste of what there should be far more of – innovative, high-quality cuisine that dares to be different.
When you have dinner at MUN, you get his life on a plate. Mun’s inspired by his birthplace, by China and the Japanese sushi chefs he learnt from, by the places he’s lived – New York, California, Hawaii, Argentina – and everything comes together with a fantastic selection of (mostly German) wines. Food is beautifully presented, and the setting is laid-back. “Sushi is finger food”, Cary told us. “Shove the whole thing in your mouth at once, we’re not Tantris”.
Mun and Cary returned from Seoul a month or so ago. Their new menu is inspired by their recent travels. You can choose between a four-course or six-course menu (75 € and 95 €, respectively). Currently, the menu includes albacore sashimi, sushi with Maldivian tuna and Scottish salmon, tuna tartare (my personal favourite), miso duck and kimchi, kalbigui (barbecued short ribs) with a black rice risotto and incredible Korean street food desserts.
I was invited to sample the new menu, and I would go again in a heartbeat. I have recommended it to so many people already – MUN understands what it means to be a host – staff are attentive, Cary is wonderfully entertaining, and food is beautifully presented and simultaneously exquisite.
MUN is undoubtedly one of the most innovative restaurants in the city, and Munich needs more like it. Book online, or buy a loved one the 2018 TasteTwelve book for Christmas – MUN is one of the restaurants included.
Innere Wiener Str. 18 (Tram 16, Am Gasteig)
Sun & Tue – Thu: 5:30 pm – 11:00 pm
Fri & Sat: 5:30 pm – 12:00 am